The gasket is not designed to be overtightened, it operates by forming
a gap filling function between the head & cam cover which accommodates
both flex of head/cam-cover & thermal expansion changes. Over repeated
thermal cycling the elasticity of this gasket deteriorates until it can
no longer perform a gap filling function and oil will seep past the
gasket into the non-draining spark-plug-wells or down the front/rear of
the engine. Ignition leads left in oil-wet wells will suffer degradation
in their performance until a no spark condition results in that cylinder.
Solutions:
2) Retorque the cover slightly: do not overtighten, the
torque is 5.8-8.0Nm which is finger tight. Torquing is to be
peformed in a specific pattern as per
"Cam/Valve-Cover Gasket" in
"Section A)".
c) Replace the affected cam/valve-cover gasket replaced. The front bank
is DIYable in 30mins, the rear bank requires 4hrs labour. The gaskets
are 20ukp/20$US from Mazda Dealers. Details of the procedure can be
found under
"Cam/Valve-Cover Gasket" in "Section A)".
Oil on the spark-plug electrodes is due to one of two things:
a) If all the spark-plugs are similarly wet, there is a problem and a
compression test needs to be done to verify valve-guides are not
worn. An extremely small number of 94 V6s suffered premature
valve-guide wear, typified by compression around 120psi - all
such engines would have had the failure several years ago.
b) More usually the electrode on only one spark-plug is wet, due to
a blocked fuel-injector causing oil to be drawn through under vacuum.
Injector cleaner (Techron/Redline-SI1/SI2/STP-Black-Bottle) in the
petrol tank will resolve the problem.
Last Upload: 31st January, 2002. V1.50a
Oil Wet Ignition Leads, Spark Plugs, Electrodes, Spark-plug Well (all, any)
Tools Required
Spark plug wrench (in the toolkit of Mazda cars).
1. Oil on
Ignition Leads or on Spark-Plug part outside Cylinder
Oil on the ignition leads, or on the area of the spark-plug outside
the cylinder is from the cam/valve-cover gasket (20$US gasket, lifespan
is 55-70k miles for the rear bank and 70-90k miles for the front bank).
1) Every 6 months mop-out the small amount of oil that accumulates (usually
in centre wells) by rolling up kitchen tissue into a tube and feeding
this down the well & rotating it. Ignition leads must also be wiped
clean and allowed to dry out - in the longer-term if neglected a
miss-fire at that cylinder will result.
2. Oil on
spark-plug base & electrode Inside Cylinders
Oil on spark-plug threads alone should not be confused with oil
on electrodes. When removing spark-plugs even from seemingly dry
wells, any oil hidden under the spark-plug-to-head washer will
rapidly wick down threads.
URL: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/p_m17.htm